HĂ  Ná»™i –> Mai Châu

Travelled: October 3-4, 2015

Another weekend motorbike excursion is now under my belt. This time we cruised out with 23 people to Mai Châu. We met at Ho Chi Minh mausoleum at 5:30am. We didn’t leave as soon as expected, not taking off until just after 6:00am. However, we did catch the morning yoga workouts done by locals, spread across the grass and concrete walkway, and the rising of the flag. It was unexpected and a really beautiful moment.

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The whole journey there was a bit rocky. Naturally the large group split into three smaller travelling groups. Each group seemed to have some sort of defaulted motorbike journey, whether it was mechanical, a flat tire or an accident. Within my group, I was the unlucky one who was hit by another motorbike. Slowing down for a pothole, I cruised over it soundlessly until two seconds later the person behind me slammed into my left calf and bike, making myself and my bike fall. My immediate reaction was to get the fuck up before I get crushed by a cement truck. Getting up I hobbled over to the side of the road, asking someone to grab my bike out of the middle of the highway. I was just happy I could walk, although there was a limp stemming from the bottom portion of my leg. Falling on my left side is always a gamble with my hip replacement. I was alright— a few rips in my denim jacket, but shockingly no damage to my $2 made in Vietnam cotton pants. (Impressive!) After I was hit, a Vietnamese lady behind me got hit and fell as well, but had what appeared to be pretty bad road rash from having a large portion of her skin exposed. Standing on the side of the road, I tried to pull myself together. Thankfully I had support from my friends and we chilled out for a minute before heading back on the road. The irony in the fall, was the song I had playing at the time, Ween’s “Falling Out.” Although the connotation of the song is based on the extremities of ending relationships, the fact I was hearing the words falling out as I fell of my bike, resonated pretty comically within myself.

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Back on the road, the 11 of us continued on our journey. We stopping for lunch and coffee, pulled over to put our rain ponchos on, paused to make sure one of our fellow traveler and friend skidded out on the road from gravel was okay and made a group consensus on which route to take. We settled for the longer way, passing through a waterfall and a village. This road had so many natural beauties as well as so many imperfections in the ground. We passed over mud, sharp large rocks, dirt paths, severely unpaved roads, puddles of water and lose gravel. We avoided flocks of animals, road kill, other motorbikes coming in the opposite direction, children playing in the roads and bits of nature scattered along our path. We stopped a few times to observe and take in the stunning views of mountains, valleys and waterfalls. After a long 8 hour journey, we finally made it to our home stay in Mai Châu.

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I was happy to be settled in somewhere for a day, not having to drive my motorbike and be able to catch my breathe from the anxiety I accrued on this excursion. I put my stuff on one of many lined up floor mattress on the top floor of our home stay. There were about 20 beds lined on the floor, each with a blanket, pillow and mosquito net to be put down once getting in to bed. The bottom outside area was lined with bench style tables and a box fridge full of Hà Nội beer, water and Coca Colas. As always, gravitating to an ice cold beer, a bunch of us hung out just talking and sharing our bike journeys. It was nice to all be there safe and sound after all the accidents and mechanical fails.

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Shortly after, picking ourselves up, we began roaming the intimate streets of the Mai Châu village we were staying in. Each store had a rustic build, all wood and open. They were lined with colorful and embroidered handcrafted goods for sale. It was a nice and slow paced walk with good company. We spent the afternoon exploring, drinking beers and doing some shopping. The day shifted into evening and we headed back to our home stay for some delicious home cooked Vietnamese food.

Every Saturday night there is a bon fire event in Mai Châu that is full of young adults dancing and singing around a field of multiple bon fires. Being part of the reason we took the trip, it was an obligatory thing to see although it was a long exhausting day. I walked as far as I could, until I found a large golf cart that drove a friend and I to the bon fire for $1. The bon fire was full of energy, music and laughter. I only stayed for a short while to see what it was about before heading back to be more comfortable and horizontal.

IMG_4881Early the next morning I was awoken from an already shitty sleep to a chain of three roosters cock-a-doodling like no ones business. It went on for hours, as I would hear them doodle from loudest, to medium volume to the quietest on repeat. When the sun finally came out at 6:00am I walked downstairs to ice my leg. An hour later, delicious egg and cheese sandwiches were served for breakfast. After eating some of us went to the rooftop Sunset coffee bar to enjoy a hot Vietnamese coffee with milk and take in the foggy mountainous views. It is so peaceful being amongst the mountains, not hearing horns or logged in to social networking.

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We spent another hour walking around doing last minute bargaining and shopping before heading back to Hanoi. The ride home was a lot more soundless with the only interruptions being to get gas or stop and take a few pictures. Although driving on the open road has gorgeous scenery and you can cover more ground in a shorter time, it is more dangerous going at a faster speed and hitting larger pot holes or any unfriendly road condition. There was a huge sense of relief getting back in to the city.

HĂ  Ná»™i –> Cát BĂ  Island

Travelled: August 15-16, 2015

WOW. Words can barely explain the amazement and satisfaction I endured this past weekend. Friday after work, I finally drove myself to Miss Nhi Beauty Club to treat myself to a long overdue pedicure. For $9 USD I got a pedicure, 30-minute foot massage and made a new friend Ly. Ly works at the salon, selling accessories and speaks really great English. Friday was the first day of the month on the lunar calendar and in Vietnam that is a sacred day where many people go to the Pagoda to pray to Buddha. It’s also traditional to burn fake money in a small kiln on the street. Nhi, the salon owner, began burning fake USD, VND and gold blocks outside her storefront. I went out front to see what it was all about and ended up burning the money with them. It is supposed to be good luck for fortune and to tribute to the dead in heaven. Lightning was bolting in the background, cars and motorbikes were honking in a heavily backed up traffic jam and I sat in front, taking in the culture first hand, with freshly painted toes.

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Ly lives very close to me so I followed her to our neighborhood in a frantic state, as we zipped in and out of the clusterfuck of vehicles. This only prepared me for my first motorbike trip to be followed the next morning.

Rising at 5:00am to hit the road by 6:00am was a brutal and beautiful way to start the day. Waking up is always the hard part, but knowing you are about to set out for a new adventure keeps those eyes wide open and focused. Leaving from a local coffee shop, six of us set out on motorbikes to Cát Bà Island. The drive took about five hours, with a few stops for pho, rice noodle soup and nước mía, a sugar cane juice. We missed the 11:30am ferry by 20 minutes so we had to wait about an hour and a half for the next one. In the meantime, we ate pho for the second time that day and had a 333 beer. Once we got on the ferry it was a nice resting point to just relax and take in the view. The sky was clear with bodacious white clouds filtering through. It was nice to just zone out and look around in such a peaceful state of mind.

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The drive was still not complete, as we had to get to the other side of the island. NO PROBLEM! Peaceful Easy Feeling by the Eagles was my song of choice that I kept singing out loud to myself throughout the journey. That with many others, formed a small and fitting playlist for my trip.

Once we reached the beach town of Cát Bà, we found a hotel to stay in for the night. We ended up staying at the first place we looked which was a whopping $5 USD per person for one night’s stay. AirCon included. Quickly, we changed in to our bathing suits and started on our mission to get drunk on the beach. The hotel manager told us the second beach was the best and was only a ten minute walk. Off we went on foot, grabbing a beer for the walk uphill to reach the beaches. We paid the minimal resort and chaise lounge fee, put our stuff down, bought some beers and carried on our way in to the warm, salty water. The feeling of getting in the water was a magical relief. WE MADE IT!

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We brought countless bottles of Tiger beer in the water with us. With the one goal solely being not to get the salt water in our bottles. When a wave would be mellow, we would sip. When a wave would be larger, we would raise our arm, high to the sky to keep the beer safe. A German woman traveling alone, put her stuff with ours and upon request, took some photos of us as a group. She happened to capture the epitome of our actions.

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Then there was the tennis ball—the social interaction of the Vietnamese and the Americans—a simple game of catch from us in the ocean to those on the cliff. I didn’t partake too much in this game, as throwing a ball is not really my forte. It was enjoyable to watch the excitement of everyone, as people passing by on the cliff would stop and play a few rounds of catch. It truly is wonderful how strangers and those of different cultures can connect in such a simple way.

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We must have been in the water for a solid three hours. The sun was starting to set so we went in to shore and continued drinking beer and just hanging around. Eventually we started our trek back to our hotel to change and get some much needed food. Dinner was delicious. We ordered pizza, spring rolls and French fries. A wild combination of everything a drunk person may want. And more beer. And some margaritas. The constant chatter and laughter at our table was timeless until I decided to fall asleep at the table with a slice of pizza in my hand…

Assumingly so, myself and one other went back to our hotel to catch some z’s. The other four continued on with their night of debauchery. Always hesitant to leave the party, even when I am half asleep, it was a glorious thing I did considering we woke up early to catch the ferry at 10:30am to head back home.

Ranging from 40-80km per hour, we zipped through small towns and open highways, crossed bridges, braved roundabouts with vehicles coming in all which directions, and avoided and flew over one too many potholes. The views and drive was well worth the gravel, dirt, sweat and bugs that hit and stayed put on my face. It was worth the quick turn around and forever-memorable first motorbike adventure.